I make scrambled eggs nearly every morning. This brief, bleary-eyed ritual started several years ago during a bodyweight-prompted period of Paleo-ish eating. It continues, though I’m kind of sick of this breakfast, because my wife has grown accustomed to having scrambled eggs each morning and will not allow me to stop.
Because I've scrambled thousands of eggs at this point, I’ve gone through a number of nonstick pans and silicone spatulas. A few months ago, one of the latter gave out. So I did what anyone would do—headed down to Spatula City* and picked out a new one. And it turned out to be a delight.
I make fluffy scrambled eggs, the kind you get when you pour whisked eggs into a heated, buttered pan and then scrape up the just-set layers in sheets as they form on the Teflon. As the egg mixture sloshes around, it rises and forms thin sheets on the pan’s interior perimeter—and unless you want crackly, dried-out egg flakes incorporated into your breakfast, you need to quickly scrape these down.
Many otherwise-excellent spatulas are quite bad for this task. A GIR Ultimate is too dull and stiff to effectively dislodge that egg from the concave side of the pan. There's always egg left behind to overcook. You can do the job well enough with a floppy-headed silicone baking spatula, and that's what I'd been doing, morning after morning, until I brought home a wood-handled Tovolo Flex-Core ($7.95 on Amazon).
Here’s why the Tovolo—introduced last fall by the company best-known for its king-sized ice cube trays—is uniquely wonderful for making scrambled eggs: The edge of the silicone is extremely thin and totally flexible, so it conforms completely to the edge of the pan and thoroughly scrapes up that egg mixture in a single pass. But the center of the silicone is stiff, so the flexy edge gets much-needed support.
The effect is like shaving with a whetstone-sharpened straight razor† when you're used to a Gillette. It's a more precise and powerful tool. And it comes in a variety of attractive configurations.
With the Flex-Core spatula, making scrambled eggs feels good. The earlier it is in the morning, the more magical it seems.
*A.k.a. Whisk in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
†I assume. I've never done this.
This story originally appeared on Foodandwine.com.