For more than two decades now, I’ve been haunted by a TV commercial. I close my eyes and see it: the POV of a dog racing through a house, its snout twitching at a mouthwatering scent, its stream-of-consciousness voiceover maniacally repeating one thing: “bacon bacon bacon!” Yes, it’s the ad for Beggin’ Strips, the bacon-shaped dog treats made with real bacon—and soy meal, wheat, ground corn, and other fillers and preservatives. 

Today I’m going to find out if they’re completely disgusting or strangely appealing. Also: If I were a dog, would I really care?